Road Trip South America

Begin Your Journey in Quito

Road Trip — Sun, 01 Apr 2007 20:33:00 GMT

Quito and the surrounding countryside.
Although Quito is the large and complex Capital city of Ecuador, within an hour's drive you can experience the tranquility and variety of the spectacular Ecuadorian countryside. In the north, the barren, rugged mountains of the equator at Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World, found in 1736) beckon. Directly to the west of the city lies the active volcano of Pichincha that periodically spews some gases and ash in to the normally clear sky. To the north and west there is the tropical cloud forest near the quaint village of Mindo where you might be able to see some of the 260 plant species including spectacular orchids. This area is home to the spectacled bear, beautiful butterflies, rare species of hummingbirds and of course some of the best trout fishing available. Don't forget Otavalo, where if you want to bargain, you can get a great deal on the purchase of a wonderful variety of hand-made Ecuadorian products. A little further north of Otavalo, about a quarter mile north of Guayllabamba, you'll find the best zoo in the country. To the east, the soothing waters of active volcanoes, such as Reventador, Sicholagua and Antisana, near Banos de Papallacta bring you closer to the tranquil life in the Andes. The drive is spectacular and is reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands. South of Quito lies the snow covered sleeping giant of Cotopaxi, the world's largest active volcano, and the quaint villages and active markets that make the area a thriving tourist destination for the adventurous traveler. One of the most widely visited southern cities is Banos, home to Ecuador's most active volcano, Tungurahua. This 'Black Giant' awoke in the middle of last year and has been roaring ever since. This small city is near the gateway to the Oriente. (Tropical Rain Forrest)
Independent travelers, like Lisa and myself, should contact the nonprofit South American Explorers Club in central Quito for advice and more information. The SAEC also organizes weekly walks of the Old Town as well as lectures, discussions and information about points of interest throughout the country. In the U.S. the organization can be contacted toll-free at (800) 274-0568.

With all these thing to experience, where do we start? Old town Quito of course.
     The invading Spanish founded this impressive colonial styled city in 1534 on the site of an important Inca city originally founded in 1460. Quito quickly became the most impressive colonial center on the entire continent. The preservation of "Old Town", a UNESCO World Heritage Site 1978, with its grand and stunning architecture is what makes Quito so special. During the day, the historic area maintains it's colonial atmosphere with narrow cobblestone streets and colorful markets. At night, however, although the "old town" is majestic with ambient lighting and a deceptively tranquil atmosphere, in actuality it is a dangerous place to be after the sun goes down. Street theft against tourists has been on the rise since the election of the new president. Don't bring much money with you, $20 should suffice for the whole day, and don't carry anything tempting like a camera or electronic goods. Just keep your digital camera in your pocket. Parking is a serious problem in the central historical district. We found it better to park in the newer area of the city in a secured parking garage. (Don't forget: Never leave anything visible in the car, and remember to use your club.) Take a Taxi into the center of "Old Town", they are plentiful and cheap.   It is also possible to take one of the Trolleys (actually Buses) into the center of the city, but beware of the notorious pickpockets found on most of the city buses.
     As you walk the area, you will notice an immense statue on top of an extremely large westerly hill overlooking the city. This hill is known as the Panecillo (little loaf of bread), and was originally a sacred Inca site for sun worship. Today the hill lays claim to the winged statue of the Virgen de Quito, notably the City's most prominent landmark. However, don't think about walking to the top of the hill even in the daytime due to the crime rate. If you must go to the top take a cab. The Old Town will mesmerize you with its charm and colonial beauty. The district is filled with dazzling churches and museums. Oh yes, there is an entrance fee for just about everything. Consider making the highest church in the country, Basilica del Voto Nacional, your first stop. Take the elevator to the top for an absolutely breathtaking view of the city. By the way, the coffee shop on the terrace makes a great cappuccino. Across the way you can see the Iglesia de San Blas, one of the few churches open to the indians during colonial times. Exploration of the 17 churches in old town will keep you busy for a while, because one is more spectacular than the next. Plaza de la Independencia is spectacular for it's Victorian Style Liberty Monument surrounded by palm trees and flower beds. The most spectacular, and the oldest church is located in the Plaza de San Francisco. Iglesia de San Francisco is renowned for its exquisite gold leaf and unique carvings. Right next door is a museum that holds a collection of paintings, statues, carvings and furniture from the beautiful old cloisters. If you want another good cup of coffee, or lunch, we recommend Tianguez. It's a charming little bistro at the foot of the church steps and under the wall.
     You will find the shops and the handcrafts inexpensive, and the small coffee bars friendly. You can even take a horse drawn carriage ride if you want to step back in time. Lisa and I truly enjoy the Central Historic District. It is probably one of the more colorful areas of the city.

Begin Your Journey in Ecuador

Road Trip — Sun, 18 Mar 2007 19:26:22 GMT

Lisa and I have driven from Texas to Panama and all over Central and South America,as well as all of North America and the Continent of Europe. We have designed this blog for people who want the adventure of the open road but who have realized that travel books and agencies have information that is often unclear, outdated and impractical for the modern adventurous traveler. We have designed this site to be interactive and to provide an informational guide to make your travel easier, whether it is by a private vehicle, a rental vehicle or hiring a local guide.

Where do I start? Ecuador, as that's where we presently located. Why Ecuador? Because it has some of the most diverse ecology on the planet, as well as some of the most fascinating indigenous Peoples. However, before we begin our journey, we will need some form of transportation, since it is our goal to drive all of South America.

Buying a car in Ecuador
     With your paperwork in order, acquiring a vehicle in Ecuador is extremely easy if you have permanent residency, a work visa or diplomatic status. In addition, the prices of the new, as well as used cars, are relatively cheap compared to other Latin American countries and the world. If you do not meet the above requirements, however, you will have to rent a vehicle. The present governments do not allow for the importation of vehicles into South America if you are not a resident.
     Buying a new car assures that it will be in excellent condition and that it will last and be easy to sell. On the other hand, it is a car that is at high risk for theft, therefore it is important to invest in car alarms, insurance, a club and a tracking system such as 'Hunter.' You will find that air conditioning is expensive to install and is a drain on the vehicles fuel economy. The average price of regular gas per gallon is $1.48 USD. The temperatures in most of Ecuador are mild enough that you won't need the added expense. You should take into account that the new cars depreciate in value at about $500 - $1000 per year.
    Lisa and I chose a Chevrolet Vitara (Suzuki Sidekick) that is assembled in Ecuador. Although the Vitara is smaller than other 4x4's it is extremely reliable and the most popular selling car in Ecuador. The smaller size is an advantage considering the narrowness of the roads both in and outside the cities. Initial cost: $13,000 USD. The decision to buy a 4x4 was easy. Most of the roads in Latin and South America are in terrible condition or, in some cases, nonexistent. For example, the Pan-American Highway between Ambato and Cuenca, Ecuador is nothing more than a wide dirt road, with occasion paving, and potholes large enough to swallow a VW Beetle. The stock Vitara 4x4 can handle almost any road condition that you will find in South America.
     In addition to the basics listed above, we added 30" MT tires, an 8,000 lb winch, fog lights, had the vehicle lifted another 3" and added a rooftop luggage rack and a locking rooftop storage unit for camping gear. Extra expenses: $2,000 USD. These are usually considered nonessential add-ons in most of North America and Europe, but in Central and South America they are essential if you plan on doing any sort of extensive travel. Lisa and I knew we would be in South America for at least a year.

Ecuador is a country with clear, universal standards in regards to transportation laws, but it lacks enforcement. With this knowledge, you should be constantly alert, and watch out for drivers that are discourteous, passive aggressive or inexperienced that are driving on the streets and can cause an accident at any moment. Many Ecuadorian drivers, including commercial drivers, do not have licenses or insurance. Drive defensively and calmly. We suggest you be careful of: Bus drivers, truck drivers and taxi drivers. They are usually disrespectful to other drivers and will change lanes or cut in front of you without prior notice. It is possible to purchase and drive a car without a license or any prior driving experience!

1. Pedestrians: Unfortunately, Ecuador does not have strict rules for pedestrians as yet, and there are no sanctions for inappropriate actions such as stepping into oncoming traffic, or weaving in and out of moving vehicles. They cross in the middle of the street, don't respect traffic signals, do not use cross walks and pedestrian bridges and these are only some of the things that can cause a serious accident. If you hit a pedestrian in Ecuador you will be arrested and placed in jail. Remember, the driver is always at fault. Always look both ways and behind you for possible unaware pedestrians.

2. There are no specifically designated bicycle lanes, but they are a very common mode of transportation. Be aware of them, the lack of a motor can make them invisible sometimes. Remember that although they do not obey traffic regulations, they are at a disadvantage and it is your responsibility to protect them.

3. Be careful with the light changes at stoplights! Many imprudent drivers sometimes accelerate when the light turns yellow instead of braking. Drivers will also block intersections rather than wait for the next light change. Many drivers accelerate before the light turns green causing numerous accidents. You should always wait until the light has completely turned green before proceeding. Ignore the impatient drivers behind you that are leaning on their horns.

4. Avoid driving at night in all Central and South American countries because it can be extremely hazardous. Many assaults and accidents occur during these hours when drunk drivers and thieves are numerous. In the early morning hours be extra careful at stoplights for people hanging around the intersections in groups. Keep your windows rolled up. In addition, many times vehicles will drive without lights and will park in the traffic lanes without lights or markers. Even most native drivers will avoid driving at night.

5. Try not to drive during peak times, 8:00 - 9:30 / 12:00-13:00/17:00-19:00 from Monday to Friday. Traffic is very congested and if there is a bad driver around you will find them out and about during these hours. If you do have an accident, you will find that most of the people involved, including the drivers of the vehicles, will flee the accident scene rather than pay the bribes involved and the penalties. You might want to consider this alternative yourself should the unfortunate incidence arise.

6. If you are driving on the highway, always be aware of people, animals and cattle that may be crossing the road. Even though the average highway speed is only about 60 kilometers per hour (40mph), the average road will take your undivided attention to avoid an accident. Many times the indigenous peoples will tie their large animals to the side of the road.

7. In Ecuador, motorcycles are a major cause of accidents and traffic fatalities. Motorcycles are inexpensive to purchase, ($900 - $2000 dollars) and for this reason, are very popular. It is not uncommon to see as many as four people riding on a two-person bike, weaving in and out of traffic at 60 or 70 kph. Many times, motorcyclists make their own lanes and will ride on the curbside of the road in your blind spot. Their erratic driving has caused over 200 fatalities in Quito alone since January of 2007. There is an age limit to drive a motorcycle, however as with all things in this country like traffic regulations, the law is basically ignored. The one thing that is quite clear is that the automobile driver is always at fault. Remember to be cognizant of motorcycles and always give them right of way.

Even though the above text might give you the impression that no one should be on the roads, driving in Central and South America can be an extremely rewarding and truly wonderful experience. Without a car, you are restricted to only the local tourist traps where the tour bus takes you. If you take public transportation then you are restricted to timetables, delays and poor conditions. We have driven Ecuador and other South American countries, and taken friends, family and other tourists on these trips and highly recommend driving. Without a car or car and driver you miss out on all the wonders of the small towns, local people, foods and the real feel of the country. So, the real question is should you be driving in Central or South America? The answer is an unequivocal YES